dimelo a mi?......y la guarnicion que le acompaña, hoy me han llegado las bielas noir "red"............XD.
basicamente no parece que tenga 160mm se comporta casi como la mojo 140 de la jefa, yo estoy acostumbrado a un vpp1 con muelle que no es lo mejor pedaleando pero el funcionamiento de la trasera bajando es espectacular, al rp23 si le pongo el sag que toca va duro para mi gusto absorbe bien impactos grandes pero en el tramo intermedio es duro, si le pongo un sag mas bestia mejora algo pero hace topes al mínimo escalón en mi opinion le falta progresividad para este sistema, la mojo 140 la puedo llevar con mucho sag sin problemas, pero lleva un rp23 con camara pequeña lo que lo hace mas progresivo y no hace topes si lo llevo bajo de presion la mojo hd lleva una camara xv y es demasiado lineal al final del recorrido para este sistema en otro sistema quizas en este no es cuestion de gustos, a mi me falta sensibilidad y algo de progresividad al final ten en cuenta que vengo de de un sistema muy sensible y tragon, leete esto ha probado la misma bici con 3 amortos Pretty sure they already have. They've got data on the HD in both 160mm and 140mm configurations. I've mentioned this in several threads before, but I'll interject again. I had the opportunity to ride my stock RP23, Monarch RT3, and Vivid Team Issue Coil. My major issues with the RP23 were with wallow: I had difficulty getting it balanced. Either I ran too much air and it wouldn't use full travel or not enough and I was bottoming out too often. This was frustrating as I was trying to keep my sag between 25-30%. I tried propedal on vs. off, tried running different propedal settings, experimenting with the rebound... didn't ever seem quite right. Don't get me wrong... these problems aside, I think it's a decent shock, just one with quirks, which I can only imagine come from trying to tune a shock from the factory to work with a number of designs, and within those designs you have people riding the same bike very differently. Some folks are building HD's as mini-DH bikes. Some folks are building them to ride more like an XC bike. It's a very versatile chassis. The Monarch solved the issues I had with the RP23. Set-up was pretty easy, made easier by the percentage gradients. A simple idea, but a useful one. At between 25-30%sag, with the floodgate open, I felt very little pedal bob when climbing. At one point I even tried to look at the gradients to see if it was moving. This unscientific observation noted about 10% movement with exaggerated pedal bob. When descending, bottomed out far less (never got the nasty tire vs. seatmast noise) and the travel felt much more controlled. Felt like I gained an inch of travel, super-supple travel which I would rate as even coil-like. All in all... a lightweight shock that performed better than the RP23 by far. I was very happy with how it rode. The Vivid Team Kit, for me was like the next step in the progression. It built upon the advantages of the Monarch and just kept going. I rode this down a nice little flowy section of singletrack here called The Wathan. The Wathan is flowy, but then throws little outcroppings of jagged quartz and granite into the mix. I was stunned with how well the bike handled those sections in particular. Usually, if I have any kind of speed at all through those sections I have to shoot through them and just hang on. These sections are short enough that I can do that and just aim for something to steer on on the other side. With the Vivid coil I felt like I had control over this stuff. Like time slowed down and I could just pick whatever line I wanted, or even stop if I needed to. It was amazing how much more control I had. If the Monarch felt like it gave me another inch, this thing felt like two. Climbing I did notice just a little more bob than with the Monarch. That being said I really hadn't spent any time with any of the adjustments. Just bolted it on and rode. That being said... setup on the Vivid Team Issue is pretty slick. Aside from all the magic on the inside with pistons and stacks the kit comes with the adjustment range of the High and Low speed compression adjusters set for your weight and riding application, and nice, easy to use external adjustments (blue and gold knobs) which basicaly translate into bump force and handling. Which is nice, because even a suspension moron like myself can make meaningful adjustments with simple instructions like that. So.. in summary.... I liked the Vivid Team Issue the best. I do all-mountainy type riding mostly. The local trails here usually involve 45-60 min climbs to the top and then dry descents with lots of big rocks in the way. In the summers I ride a lot of stuff higher up, which means more climbing, though often the descents are a little more buffed. If I had the coin, I'd probably get the Monarch and Vivid both. But since I don't, the Vivid is my huckleberry. Sorry to hijack as I have not ridden the DHX air at all, and offer no valuable 1st person comparison. Though I would ask this: for the $, what does the DHX air do that the Monarch with a Push Tune won't? __________________ **** censorship eso y lo que va a molar llevar un muelle:lol: me has pillao! yo emn cuanto ponga el muelle me dejo uno igual:lol:
Es lo que haré pero con el vivid, el problema es que tftuned no tunea el vivid, al menos no lo he visto en su web
x1lolo, creo que tú mismo orientas hacia la solución "fácil", que sería hacer más pequeña la cámara de aire de tu rp23, para darle más progresividad al sistema, ya que encuentras que no es suficiente. Desde luego que yo no me atrevería a hacerlo, pero parece ser que no es tan difícil, y hay empresas en España que te lo pueden hacer. dicho esto... móntale el muelle que queda más chula!!!! Por otra parte... qué tal los frenos XX?
efectivamente lo que tenéis que hacer es ponerle todos un muelle a la HD.... os lo vendo yo, baratico oiga...... vaya unos pajilleros....
hombre lo que esta claro es que un muelle siempre ira mejor bajando que cualquier aire, la pregunta es si lo que mejoras vale la pena ponerlo
Eliminar parte de la cámara accesoria de un Fox jaivolumen es fácil, en el mío (Rp23 HV 2008) me lo hizo Ender en casa en 20 minutos. Hay por ahí un tutorial. Saludos cordiales...
creo que en el tutorial utilizaban tarjetas de plástico ( tarjetas de crédito vaya) ajustándolas por dentro de la tolva para quitar volumen ¿no?
Pero que el rp23 va de fruta madre! no seais cabezotaasss!!!!!! :mrgreen: Pd: Al menos para los pesos pesados!
Ivanius, los xx bien igual que los elixir cr pero con menos ajustes manuales y tornilleria de titanio pero de funcionamiento unos elixir
En la Nomad (1 y 2) va mejor subiendo y bajando, es decir que, sí, merece la pena. En la HD parece que también, así que dentro de nada veremos por aquí unos cuantos mojones muellizados... O no...
En general para ir topabajo si, pero te aumenta el peso, en el caso de esta bici viendo el peso de partida, no me preocupa si mejora el rendimiento. La nomad la tenía en 14,9 muelleada y esta en el peor de los casos se quedara como poco kilo y pico por debajo con un sistema que pedalea mejor y una geo mas escaladora
A ver si nos aclaramos con el amortiguador....O vale con aire o no vale..!!! O tal vez el rp23 no sea la mejor opcion dentro del grupo aire..???
